I have been reading Lucy Siegle's
To Die For: Is Fashion Wearing Out The World. I didn't agree with all of it, and I couldn't read the chapter on fur farming at all, but I found it fascinating and on the whole I'd recommend it.
Siegle begins with the image of an overstuffed wardrobe, and like a sort of self-flagellating sartorial Bunyan, goes off in search of what she terms the Perfect Wardrobe, an ethical city on a hill. On the way she discusses not only the usual suspects - sweatshops, polluted water, urban legends about Primark customers - but also the consequences of too many cashmere goats, the question of whether fabric alleged to be made of bamboo actually has any bamboo in it at all, and what will happen when the late 2000s surge of skinny jeans hit second-hand sellers in Africa.
It's written in an easy, journalistic style, but is fortunately free of most of the annoying tics of fashion journalism - there's no 'lumps and bumps' or 'lotions and potions'. There
is rather a lot of casual anti-fat prejudice, though most of it from eco firms Siegle patronises rather than from Siegle herself. One man will helpfully classify your wardrobe's carbon footprint into a faux-BMI category, the top two categories being 'fashionably overweight' and 'fashionably obese': another yarn firm describes their eco offerings as 'skinny'. With attitudes like this floating about in the sustainable fashion community, it's no wonder that my attempts to find non-sweatshopped, eco-friendly clothes in a size 24 are so often thwarted.
Throughout most of the book, Siegle is clearly mostly interested in getting the facts in front of consumers and making the case that it's all more complicated, and often a case of doing the least harm rather than no harm. In the final chapter, she moves on to 'trying to create a debate' and the results are a lot more mixed.
For example, she's iffy about buying vintage because she thinks people just do it to get a buzz of self-satisfaction; whereas she's in favour of clothing swaps, because... they give her a buzz of self-satisfaction. As far as the clothing swaps go, she's also annoyingly privileged: she admits that commercial clothing swaps are open only to those who have barely-worn designer clothes to offer, but she doesn't seem to see that as a problem.
She isn't very pro charity shop, because clothes often get sold on into the Third World, thus depressing local clothing industries, which... I can see is a worry, but I'd still sooner my discarded clothes were on someone's back than in landfill. She's also bafflingly dismissive about the percentage of donated clothes that actually show up on the rails, which seems odd: whenever I give to the local shops, I generally see my clothes on the rails a week or so later.
On the other hand, she is very much in favour of 'upcycling', which I have to admit is a word that makes my heart sink. Siegle tells a heart-warming story of a tailoring firm who turned the first suit she ever bought into a dress, which she now wears, and if upcycling was always that kind of skilled repurposing - or even if it was people altering their own clothes, in however punk and individual a way, for their own amusement - I'd be in favour of it. But in general, it means 'I ruined a perfectly good t-shirt / vintage dress / pair of jeans and then I put it on Etsy'.
Franca at
Oranges and Apples also has a really interesting response to this book, which is well worth a read.